Now that we’ve covered cabinets styles, let’s talk materials. Specifically,
Hardwood
Why hardwood?
Think about it. Kitchen cabinets need to handle everyday wear and tear. Everything from pots and pans banging into doors to heavy appliances like the hefty mixer nudging the edge of your cabinet face frame .
That’s why this part of the cabinet needs to look great and be durable enough to handle all the action.
Hardness scale:
Before we talk about hardwood let me explain how hardwood is measured. We use a scale called Janka scale.
Janka Hardness Scale.
The Janka hardness test measures the force required to push a steel ball halfway into a sample of wood. The higher the Janka rating, the more resistant the wood is to denting and wear.
Think of the Janka scale as a way to measure how resistant a wood is to denting and wear. The higher the number, the tougher the wood.
As you can see there is a huge difference between hardwood and softwood. Red Oak is referred to as the bench mark number.
Here’s a look at what we use and what we avoid.
What We Use:
Hard Maple and Beech
Hard maple is our go-to for painted cabinets, and it’s easy to see why. With a Janka hardness rating of 1450, hard maple is extremely dense and resistant to dents and scratches. This density, combined with its predictable stability, is essential for painted finishes, as it keeps the hard shell of paint intact without cracking or shifting over time.
European Beech is another great option. With a similar hardness (Janka rating of 1300), beech offers the same resilience and durability as maple. It also has a fine, even grain that takes paint beautifully, giving cabinets a sleek and clean look. Both hard maple and European beech deliver the stability and strength needed for long-lasting painted cabinetry.
White Oak
When it comes to stained cabinets, White Oak is stunning. Combining natural warmth with a Janka hardness rating of 1360, making it both beautiful and durable. Its subtle grain patterns give cabinets a refined look, and its ability to take stain results in rich, varied finishes, from light and airy to deep and bold.
White oak can be milled in three ways, each with a unique look:
Rift-Sawn: Has a clean, linear grain with minimal flecking, ideal for modern designs.
Quarter-Sawn: Highlights ray flecks and a stable grain, adding character—perfect for craftsman and traditional styles.
Plain-Sawn: Shows wide, flowing grain patterns, great for rustic and classic looks.
Each milling style showcases white oak’s beauty differently, giving you tailored options for cabinetry design.
Cherry, Walnut, and Mahogany.
If you’re after a more luxurious finish then all of these are all excellent choices.
Hickory.
Hickory is another great choice, but it has a very strong personality. Its natural variation and bold contrasts means it’s best suited for specific décor styles, but it also can be a great accent hardwood for a modern kitchen.
Alder.
For a more rustic feel, we sometimes use Alder, especially knotty alder, which stains beautifully. It’s softer than the other hardwoods we’ve mentioned (with a Janka rating of 590), meaning it dents more easily, but that’s part of its charm. In the right kitchen, those dents and marks only add to its character.
What We DON'T Like to Use:
Now, let’s talk about materials we avoid for kitchen and bathroom cabinets.
One thing that surprised me early on was discovering how many kitchen cabinets are made from
Poplar Wood.
Poplar is an affordable option compared to hardwood, but its softness makes it unsuitable for high traffic areas like kitchens. Poplar dents and scratches very easily, which means it won't hold up well to the daily wear and tear that kitchen cabinets endure. While it’s a popular choice for decorative elements like picture frames or moldings due to its smooth surface and ability to take paint well, it's not durable enough for kitchen cabinetry.
MDF and HDF.
We also steer clear of MDF (Medium-Density Fiberboard) and HDF (High-Density Fiberboard) for kitchen and bathroom cabinets. MDF is often used because it’s cheaper and has a higher profit margin. Companies can churn out MDF doors by the hundreds using a CNC machine, but it just doesn't hold up in kitchens or bathrooms. Moisture is its biggest enemy—any exposure and the doors will start to swell and fall apart. Here are example of what could happen if you use MDF/HDF door for your kitchen.
Now, I’ll admit that MDF and HDF can be good options for closets or even a walk-in pantry, where moisture isn’t a big concern. However, for areas like the kitchen or bathroom, where water exposure is inevitable, you’re much better off with a hardwood that can handle the environment.
Does choosing hardwood make cabinets more expensive?
The short answer is: not really!
While hardwood costs more than MDF or poplar, it’s just one piece of the puzzle. Working with a local custom cabinet shop like ours can actually save you money compared to a big design center selling lower-quality cabinets.
Here’s the thing: When you buy from those larger companies, you're paying for more than just cabinets. You’re covering the cost of salespeople, showrooms, and a middleman. At a local shop like ours, there's none of that; we cut out the extra layers. You get better quality, personalized service, and a great price without the markups. So yes, you can have hardwood cabinets and still come out ahead!